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Memories #1 - Daily Lessons on the Dining Table: Where Hanoi's Culinary Sophistication Meets Everyday Elegance.

Writer: diep vudiep vu

During my four years in the Netherlands, I have often found myself unable to resist mentioning Vietnamese dishes that I could passionately discuss with friends for hours. I can't help but reminisce about the flavors of my childhood embedded in each fragment of memory. With a long history and diverse geographical locations, each region in the S-shaped land boasts unique dishes, each with its own distinct flavor that cannot be easily blended. This contributes to the diverse culinary foundation of Vietnam, captivating every diner, both locally and internationally.

I was born in Northern Vietnam, a region known for its meticulousness and sophistication in selecting ingredients, processing, and savoring food. Within every dish crafted by the people of Hanoi lies a cultural hallmark deeply rooted in the thousand-year-old land. Each dish from the capital is prepared with meticulous care, exuding an elegance yet retaining the rich, distinctive flavors.


The sophistication of Hanoi's cuisine is epitomized in its traditional feasts. When delving into the culinary culture of Hanoi, one cannot overlook the traditional banquet adorned with a plethora of rich and diverse dishes. My grandmother, in particular, approaches this with meticulous care right from the selection of ingredients. Specifically, vegetables must be genuinely fresh and delicious, and the ceremonial chicken must meet criteria such as a beautiful crest and a robust, upturned tail. Seemingly simple, every small detail reflects the meticulousness of the cook.


For my family, dining is an opportunity to savor the sophistication and elegance of each dish, rather than simply filling the stomach. Consequently, the plates and bowls used by Hanoians are generally petite, only sufficient to contain a quarter of a chicken, six pieces of cinnamon-infused pork, or six slices of sausage. There are even dish types as small as the saucer beneath a teacup, emphasizing the essence of delicate enjoyment over sheer satiation.


The etiquette observed during meals in Hanoi is considered one of the benchmarks for evaluating an individual's level of refinement and manners, extending even to an entire family. Thus, me, barely two or three years old, are taught by my parents how to hold a spoon, a bowl, and the proper way to sit at the dining table with utmost decorum. Specifically, when sitting on a chair, one should adopt a comfortable and upright posture, refraining from placing legs on the chair or resting the chin on the table. When sitting on a mat, it is recommended to sit in a cross-legged position or with legs folded to the side, avoiding a slouched or squatting posture.


Before partaking in the meal, I was taught to extend invitations to others at the table in a hierarchical order, from the elderly to the younger members. During the act of eating, one hand holds the rice bowl, the other wields chopsticks, and placing the bowl on the table is discouraged while bending down to scoop rice. While chewing, it is imperative to keep the mouth closed, eschewing any form of noisy or sloppy chewing. Sipping soup should be done delicately, without generating loud noises.


The proper use of chopsticks also becomes a cultural hallmark during every meal. According to this, chopsticks should be held delicately with the thumb, index finger, and middle finger. When eating, it is not appropriate to pick food directly from the communal dish into the mouth; instead, it should be placed in a personal bowl before consumption. Particularly, if there is still food in the bowl, it is advised not to continue picking. Flipping the food plate using chopsticks during the meal is especially frowned upon.


In Hanoi, dining tables often feature various dipping sauces. Therefore, when dipping food, one must use chopsticks gently, avoiding submerging the entire chopstick head into the shared sauce bowl. If wanting to serve others, it is customary to turn the chopstick head. When satiated and ready to conclude the meal, family members should place their chopsticks down just before requesting to leave, preventing chopsticks from being left askew on the table.


In the culinary culture of Hanoi, family meals hold great significance, creating an atmosphere of comfort and warmth throughout the dining experience. Hence, family members engage in polite conversations, steering clear of tense topics that might lead to arguments. However, it is crucial to refrain from speaking while the mouth is still full. When eating, Hanoians consume in a serene manner, gently scooping rice into their mouths.


The etiquettes observed during Hanoi's meals harbor profound principles, showcasing the refined and adept behavioral culture of the Vietnamese people. It can be said that the cultural norms in Hanoi, whether in the past or present, have not undergone significant changes. The enduring essence of sophistication and grace persists, passed down through generations.


When penning these words, I discovered that the conduct at my dining table has been carefully instructed. In the Netherlands, people speak of the refinement in my table manners. I once deemed it ordinary until I delved into it, realizing it is an entire culture passed down to us. We possess an aura that only Hanoians possess, destined to endure through generations.

 
 
 

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